|
Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows
by John Rocco
Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows
These days a lot of homeowners are replacing their old windows with
vinyl windows using the retrofit style of window frame. This is
particularly true in the west, and specifically, in California. The
number one arguement that I have heard against using the retrofit
method, is that it is susceptible to water leaks. Well, that's true if
you don't do it properly. But, if you do a complete tearout of your old
window down to the studs, you're going to have water leak issues there
as well if you don't install the new window properly. So I think that
arguement is, well, all wet. So, let me tell you the best way to
install your retrofit windows that will ensure that water cannot get in.
There is an old song that goes, "It never rains in California, but girl
don't they warn ya, it pours, man it pours". For those of you in
California, you know how true this is. While California doesn't get a
lot of annual rainfall, when it does rain, it can come down in buckets
due to the close proximity to the ocean. So, you want to be sure that
your windows are well sealed. If you are installing retrofit frames
against a stucco house, you want to put a thick bead of sealant right
on the outside face of the old window frame, all the way around. Latex
caulk should work fine, but if you want to spend a little more to get
the best sealant available, use 100% silicone. Depending on the number
of windows you will be doing, this extra cost can add up. You pay
approximately $1 for a tube of acrylic latex caulk, and $4 or more for
a tube of 100% silicone. You are going to use 1-3 tubes per window,
depending on the size. So you can see how it could add up. Here is a
trick that I used to do to save a little money; The most vulnerable
part of your installation is the top of the window, because gravity
will have the water running down from the roof to the ground. It's not
likely that water is going to find it's way through the sides or
bottom. So, I used to carry two caulking guns, and load one with the
silicone, and the other with the acrylic caulk. I would run the
silicone accross the top of the old frame, and caulk the sides and
bottom. Then, put your new window into the opening and have a helper
hold it firmly in place while you plumb and level it, then screw it
into place. After you have the window completely installed, your final
step should be to caulk where the retrofit lip meets the stucco. Here
again, I used to use white silicone on the top, and caulk on the sides
and bottom. You now have a double barrier against water infiltration.
After about a week, check the sealant around each window for signs of
cracking. Because stucco is usually uneven, there could have been gaps
that were larger in some areas than in others. If you don't force the
caulk into the gap to completely fill it, the caulk can sag before
drying, causing a crack to form. Simply recaulk over any cracks that
you see. You can check the silicone on top as well, but because
silicone dries like a rubber substance, you shouldn't see any cracks
there.
OK, what if the replacement windows are going between wood trim
surrounding the opening? If you are using the retrofit lip, and
trimming it to fit between the wood, then you still apply the heavy
bead to the old frame before installing the window. But, instead of
sealing where the retrofit lip meets the stucco, you seal where it
meets the wood. Then, you want to be sure to seal above the window,
where the top piece of wood meets the stucco. Again, use silicone up
there. Now, no water can run down the stucco wall and get under the top
piece of wood. Sometimes, though, you might decide not to use a
retrofit style frame between the wood, choosing a block replacement
frame instead. If you choose to do it this way, you have to add trim to
the outside. You still want to apply the sealant to the old frame, then
apply your trim so it contacts the new window as well as the sealant on
the old frame.
If you follow these procedures, you won't have to worry about any water
penetrating into your home, I don't care how hard it pours!
About the Author
John Rocco has been installing
replacement windows since 1978.
To learn more, visit How
To Install Windows
|